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Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Karavshin Region, Peak 4810, Northwest Face

Peak 4810, Northwest Face. It was reported that Viktor Komarov, Kostya Sakharov, Anatoli Vinokurov and Alexander Shcherbakov climbed the vertical to overhanging 1200-meter-plus Red Pillar on the northwest face of Peak 4810 in mid-July, 1994. Three previous attempts on this incredible wall had been made unsuccessfully, one, in 1993, by Komarov, Sakharov and Vinokurov. The three plus Shcherbakov began up the line of their previous attempt, fixing nine pitches up the steep slabs in two days, at first using bolts from a 1992 Dutch attempt. They encountered difficulties of 5c and a short section of A3. On July 28 they pulled their ropes and hauled to their first bivy at the top of Pitch 14. Above, a few sections of free climbing led to a large roof where they were unable to locate the line of their previous attempt and placed bolts through a smooth overhanging wall to reach easier ground above. From there they averaged three or four pitches a day until they reached the north ridge on the seventh day. Above, the angle eased considerable, and the team reached the summit the next day. They climbed the wall capsule-style, placing 45 bolts on the 33 pitches to the summit ridge plus another 15-20 shallow holes for rivets or hooks. The route received an overall grade of 6b A3. (High Mountain Sports 165)