American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum IV, East Face, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Gasherbrum IV, East Face, Attempt. No protection and avalanches stopped a Korean expedition of the Seoul University Alpine Club at 7400 meters on August 11 on the east face of Gasherbrum IV (7925 m), which remains unclimbed. The expedition reached the highest point yet recorded on the face, a distinction previously held by Japanese solo climber Yasusi Yamanoi (7000 meters) in 1993. Two members, Kim Chang-Ho and Lim Saeng-Muk, reached 7400 meters, but the constant avalanche hazard made them retreat to safety.

The near-vertical east face offers nearly 1,500 meters of hard mixed climbing. This was the second Korean attempt on the peak. The team consisted of Lee Gye-Nam (29), Kim Chang-Ho (27), Park Young-Sik (35), Kim Yong-Ho (25), Kim Saeng-Muk (25), Kang Houn-Soo (20) and Kim Duck-Sun (20). LO was Capt. Raja Zubair Farooq.

The group made Base Camp at 5200 meters, Advance Base Camp at 6000 meters, and Camp I at 6850 meters. They used 1000 meters of fixed rope.

Asem Mustafa Awan, The Nation, Pakistan

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