American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, P. 5400m, Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

P. 5400m, Ascent. It was reported that a five-man German team (Markus Aigneherr, Martin Grziwarsch, Bernd Illguth, Christian Schultes and Florian Siemer) climbed the north pillar of a 5400-meter rock spire above the Biafo Glacier. They established a temporary camp at 4800 meters and fixed rope to a bivouac site at 5000 meters in between bouts of weather, then fixed a certain amount above their high bivy en route to the top of the pillar (though not to the summit). Their efforts resulted in an entirely free route christened No Rope No Hope with difficulties up to 5.10d. They descended the line of ascent in 30 rappels. (High Mountain Sports 172)

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