American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Attempt and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Nanga Parbat, Attempt and Tragedy. From May 10 to July 5, Razvan Petcu (leader), Mihai Gioroianu, Mariuo Gane, Bodgan Pintilie and Gabriel Stana attempted the Kinshofer Route. From Camp IV, at 3:30 a.m., four climbers went for the summit. At 8000 meters, Marius Gane and Bogdan Pintilie gave up and went back to Base Camp. M. Goroianu and G. Stana reached around 8050 meters before being turned back by a violent storm. They went down to Base Camp, but Gabriel Stana decided to stay in CIII with Razvan Petcu to wait for better weather and a second summit attempt. After five days in BC, the other three climbers started to look for the two. They found an avalanche path and some clothes but no other sign of Petcu and Stana. It was the first Romanian attempt on Nanga Parbat. Petcu (41) and Stana (23) were talented and experienced mountaineers with many ascents in the Carpathians, Caucasus, Pamir and Tien Shan.

Constantin Lacatusu, Club Alpin Lynx

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