AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Solo Ascent, and Fifth Man to Climb all 14 8000ers

Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Solo Ascent, and Fifth Man to Climb all 14 8000ers. It was reported that Krzysztof Wielicki “led” a 10-member international expedition to Nanga Parbat, though he was still on K2 [see Climbs and Expeditions: Tibet] when it arrived in Pakistan. Jacek Berbeka led the team in his absence. Problems between the leader and porters plagued the expedition on its approach and continued in Base Camp. Three members left the expedition early on, and Berbeka was back in Base Camp on August 8 after an unsuccessful summit attempt via the Kinshofer route. Joan Garcia (Portugal) and Andrew Lock (Australia) remained on the mountain at Camp IV with the intentions of continuing their attempt when Berbeka told the members in Base Camp that he did not wish to wait for Wielicki and was calling off the expedition. He left the next day with the two remaining Polish climbers while the German Bernd Hackler and two cooks volunteered to wait. Garcia and Lock were told over the radio that the expedition was over, at which point they abandoned their attempt. Upon reaching Base Camp they found that Berbeka had taken the majority of the expedition cash, which left them with the matter of sorting out an end to Base Camp on their own.

Wielicki, having successfully climbed the north ridge of K2, traveled the Karakoram Highway to Chilas with his Sirdar and left for a solo attempt on the Kinshofer route. He climbed more or less continually for 48 hours and reached the summit on September 1, then descended to 5800 meters the same day and was back in Chilas seven days after departing. (High Mountain Sports 172)