American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Kinschoffer Route, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Nanga Parbat, Kinschojfer Route, Attempt. In 1995, Arnold Zukuta, Chris Kettles and I undertook an expedition to Nanga Parbat to explore the possibility of skiing from the summit via the Diamir Face and the Kinschoffer route. Our intent was also to establish effectiveness of some esoteric amenities that we theorized would have significant benefits at high altitude. This included my personal experience with hydrogen peroxide. Blood oxygenation through drinking hydrogen peroxide did not prove to have relevance in acclimatization because its effects are too shortlived in the blood stream to offset the partial pressure of oxygen in the atmosphere. It was, however, extremely effective in eliminating muscle fatigue and increasing recovery time after exertion. As well, it is invaluable as a water purifier, disinfectant and treatment for frostbite.

After two weeks of storm, we stocked the Messner Rock for Camp I. An attempt to excavate the fresh fixed rope we had learned of, to try and make a fast route up and down the couloir to Camp II, was fruitless. Chris left the expedition soon after we arrived in Base Camp, leaving Arnold and I with fresh logistics and a smaller rack of gear. Our high mark of 5700 meters was reached on August 2. With unfortunate equipment problems, interference by Japanese climbers, unstable rocks, snow and weather, the mountain bade us leave and come back another day. Returning safely from the incredible objective hazards of the Diamir face was embraced as a success for our first 8000-meter expedition.

Ptor Spricenieks, unaffiliated

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