American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Diran Peak, South Face, Attempt and Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Diran Peak, South Face, Attempt and Ascent. Shigero Aoki led a 15-member team that attempted the south face of Diran Peak (7257 m). The face proved unclimbable due to bad weather and constant avalanches. Two members, Iguchi and Hiruta, were able to reach 6700 meters but high winds and insufficient time made them return to safety on July 31. The group made Base Camp at 3200 meters, Camp I at 4100 meters, Camp II at 5000 meters, and Camp III at 5800 meters.

Earlier, two Japanese from another expedition, Iwasaki and Suzuki, reached the summit during a break in the weather on July 27.

Asem Mustafa Awan, The Nation, Pakistan

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