American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Ultar Sar, South Ridge, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Ultar Sar, South Ridge, Attempt. A Pakistan-Korean joint expedition to Ultar Sar (7388 m) failed on an attempt on the south ridge due to bad weather that lasted 20 days. The expedition— the first of its kind—featured two Pakistani climbers, Hidayat Hussain (deputy leader) and Arifullah Baig. The two reached Camp I at 5600 meters while the Koreans, led by Seo Ki Seok (33), made two attempts on the ridge, reaching Camp II at 6100 meters. The Koreans representing the Myung Ji University Club (Park Kwang In, 26, and Kim Min Sik, 25) showed remarkable resilience in attempting the peak, which was attempted by four expeditions this year, three of which were from Japan.

The group reached Base Camp (4800 m) on September 16 and took 10 days to establish Camp I (5600 meters) on a rock slope Seo graded as UIAA Grade IV that had frequent rock fall. The group made Camp II (6100 meters) on October 1. The climbing offered mixed climbing starting at 6000 meters.

Asem Mustafa Awan, The Nation, Pakistan

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.