American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir West I, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Tirich Mir West I, Attempt. We wanted to open a new line on the south face of Tirich Mir West I (7487 m), but unstable snow and ice made us decide to follow the 1967 Czech route. On July 21 we established Base Camp (4700 m). Cl was ready on July 24 at 5500 meters on the Upper Tirich Glacier. CII was established at 6500 meters after 11 hours of climbing on the 26. Later we put up a small camp between Cl and CII at 6000 meters. On August 1 all the members went up to CII. The last three days had been snowy and we didn’t want to try our new route because of the danger. We went down to BC. On August 9, three of us tried Dirgol Zom (6778 m) but found high avalanche danger. Jordi and I rested in BC with a tweaked hand and intestinal problems. On August 10, Pep, Jaume and Ferran tried the ‘67 Czech route. They left CII at 1 a.m. In the middle of the couloir, they fixed rope along a dangerous traverse for the descent. They reached the northwest col (7200 m) at noon. The rest of the ridge was very dangerous with big cornices and we decided to descend. We left BC on August 15 and reached Chitral a day later. Members of the expedition were Jaume Ros, Jordi Diaz, Ferran Hernandez, Pep Cañellas and me as leader.

Xavi Llongueras, Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya

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