American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Kangchenjunga, North Face. Kike de Pablo, Juanito Oiarzabal, Alberto Iñurrategi and Félix Iñurrategi arrived at BC on April 1. We worked on establishing the route the first two weeks of April, putting up Cl at 5800 meters on April 7 and CII at 6800 meters on the north col on April 14 and also setting up 1000 meters of fixed rope on the access wall to the north col. We made two unsuccessful attempts during the second half of April. On the first, on April 21, we arrived at CII and in the second, on April 29, we turned back from Cl.

On May 2 we set off for the summit from BC. We arrived at CII on May 2. On May 4 we climbed up the north ridge, left the tower behind, and set up last camp at 7800 meters half-way between the Tower and the Crescent.

On the May 5 it was too windy for us to leave the tents. The following day, the weather cleared and we set off at 3 a.m. Alberto, Félix and Juanito reached the summit at 1:30 p.m. Kike turned back upon reaching 5300 meters. Juanito fainted due to exhaustion, complicating the descent. On the same day we went down to CIII and the following day to BC.

Félix and Alberto Iñurrategi, Spain

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