American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pasang Lhamu Peak, Second Official Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Pasang Lhamu Peak, Second Official Ascent. On April 22, 1993, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first woman of Nepal to climb to the summit of Everest; unfortunately, she died while descending. In Nepal, she became a national heroine. The government of Nepal, in order to celebrate the third anniversary of her death, gave her name to a beautiful 7352-meter summit and opened it to expeditions. It is located in a zone which had previously been protected, a little distance from the Tibet border before Nangpa La, three days from Thame and four from Namche Bazaar. Pasang Lhamu Peak faces Cho Oyu and ends the long ridge of Nangpa Gosum.

Montagnes de la Terre and Club Alpin Français obtained authorization last autumn and 11 participants led by Michel Zalio left for this peak.

The ridge that leads to the summit was a long cornice and more difficult and engaging than foreseen. Base Camp in Dsazamba was at 5200 meters. Camp I, near Nangpa La, was at 5650 meters. Camp II was established on the ridge at 6200 meters. Camp III, before the summit, was at 6600 meters.

Two mountain guides and three Sherpas reached the summit on October 18: Rémi Thivel and Arnaud Guillaume, with Galsen Sherpa, Zangbu Sherpa and Tsiring Dorje Sherpa.

Michel Zalio, Club Alpin Français

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