American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri I, Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Dhaulagiri I, Ascent. On September 13, an expedition of 13 members from St. Petersburg, Russia, left for the mountains. Ten days later they pitched Base Camp at 4700 meters. It was decided to climb the summit by the classical route up the northeast ridge. In a week’s time two camps were organized at 5800 and 6600 meters. Heavy snowfall for four days did not stop the participants and on October 6 they continued to climb. At 7200 meters they put up two tents. Permanent wind was so strong that it would make people lay down literally flat on the slope. It snowed periodically, with snow accumulations reaching one to one and a half meters. Three participants started from the last camp but the summit was reached only by one, Anatoli Moshnikov, on October 21 at 3:30 p.m.

Vladimir Shataev, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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