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Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Rama Hanuman, Southwest Face, First Ascent

Rama Hanuman, Southwest Face, First Ascent. We made an ascent of Rama Hanuman (5860 m), a not very high but technical peak that wasn’t even on our map. Our guide lent the peak its name, and we measured its altitude with our altimeter. Our first intention was to climb another peak; we made this ascent “because of bad weather” and without a permit. When we asked at the IMF in New Delhi, we were informed that no previous ascents had been registered.

The approach to Rama Hanuman is made from Joshimath by the Dhauli Ganga River to Malari. Upon reaching Juma the Dunagiri Gap is followed to Rumg. From this point the trekking starts. Following the Duragiri Valley one arrives at the Gannakui Bank from the west. The trail finishes in the cirque formed by Dunagiri I (7074 m) and the north face of Dunagiri II (6523 m).

Base Camp was established at 4660 meters. We used three porters to Camp I at 5100 meters. We (Luis Sorian and Kiki Escalante) made the ascent in alpine style from Camp I on September 21 and 22. The first 200 meters above the Dunagiri I glacier were without technical difficulty. The route involves some technical climbing (V°, 650 meters). The route. La Ley de Murphy, was stripped of fixed gear except for the rappels.

Kike Escalante, Spain