Changabang, North Face, Attempt. Our expedition, comprising Julie-Ann Clyma, Brendan Murphy, Roger Payne and Andy Perkins, made the first attempt on the north face of Changabang (6864 m) in May and June. After arriving in New Delhi on May 13, the team was active from Base Camp from May 21 to June 16 and departed India on June 23. The weather in this premonsoon period was unsettled. The chosen route took a buttress line on the left of the face. It was approximately 1400 meters long, with steep ice grooves and mixed ground leading to a central ice field, followed by rock ramps leading to a junction with the east ridge. The climb was attempted in capsule style. It took two days (with open bivouacs) to climb the initial ice grooves, and a third day to climb the mixed ground leading to the edge of the ice field. We then spent two days camping due to bad weather and illness. On the sixth day we traversed the central ice field, but had to turn back before reaching the rock ramps because of the continued illness of one of the team. This, combined with further bad weather, led to us retreating from the route on day seven. (See photos on the opening pages of this journal.)

Julie-Ann Clyma, Alpine Climbing Group