American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, India, Himalchel Pradesh, Miyar Nala Area, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Miyar Nala Area, Various Ascents. In this part of Great Himalayan Range there are a lot of unclimbed and unnamed peaks with heights between 5500 and 6500 meters. Four virgin peaks were climbed during two different Italian expeditions in 1992 and 1996. In September, 1992, Massimo Marcheggiani, Leone Di Vincenzo and Alberto Miele climbed two peaks. The first (5750 meters) was climbed along a couloir and then up to granite walls and cracks to reach the top. The difficulty levels were up to V+ (UIAA). The second ascent was a 6000- meter peak named “Neverseen Tower.” This beautiful mountain was climbed in three days, without fixed ropes or previous assessment. Extreme difficulties up to VII (UIAA) were encountered. A third bivy was necessary during the descent. These two ascents were not reported to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.

In September, 1996, Massimo Marcheggiani, Ubaldo Denni, Francesco Camilucci and Stefano Spalletta took part in an expedition that led to the conquest of two unclimbed peaks in the same area. The first ascent was made by Massimo Marcheggiani and Ubaldo Denni. In one day starting from Camp I (5000 meters) they reached the summit (5700 meters) via a 70-degree ice couloir and VI (UIAA) rock climbing. Two days after, Massimo Marcheggiani, Ubaldo Denni and Francesco Camilucci made the second ascent. The peak named “Cittá di Frascati” is 5920 meters in height. The route was on a beautiful solid rock, with difficulty up to VI+ (UIAA). It took two days to climb, in alpine style without fixed ropes. This ascent was reported to the IMF.

Francesco Camilucci, Italy

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