American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Antarctica, Mount Vinson, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Mount Vinson, New Route. Slovenian alpinists Groselj, Klemenc, Voduake, and Stipe Boi from Croatia climbed a new route on the south face of Mount Vinson. We set up our tent on the Branscomb Glacier in the Adventure Network Agency Base at 2150 meters between January 3 and 4. After 12 hours we reached the edge of the face (4700 meters) through the right big couloir, well seen from the base. We reached the top of Mt. Vinson at 10. a.m. on January 5 via the west ridge. Groselj skied from the top via the west face after a later start over the glacier to Camp III, then to the Base via the normal ascent. Boi, Klemenc and Voduaek crossed the ridge from the summit onward and then over the glacier in connection with the normal route (CIII). At 8 p.m. they returned to Base Camp after 32 hours of walking and climbing. The Slovenian Route is a nice, classical snow route of 45 to 55° and 2500 meters high. The weather and snow conditions were unexpectedly excellent; the temperature on the summit was -35° C.

Some days later we ascended six summits from 2300 to 2900 meters from Base Camp, making ski descends from all of them several times in perfect ski conditions. When we returned to the Patriot Hills we succeeded in making several ski tours there.

Stane Klemenc, Planinska zveza Slovenija

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