American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Ascent of Guillaumet, Normal Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Ascent of Guillaumet, Normal Route. On February 27, 1997, Tom Douglas, Gabe Schlumberger and I climbed the normal route on Guillamet (in the Fitz Roy massif). We left the Paso Superior at 9 a.m. and hiked through two feet of new snow to the base. The climbing consisted of four pitches of snow, ice, and easy mixed up to 70 degrees, followed by six short pitches of very clean rock up to about 5.6/5.7. We reached the summit at 4 p.m. in deteriorating conditions, with light snow and 50-m.p.h. winds. We rappelled the route and were back at our snow cave at the Paso Superior by 7 p.m.

Hank Midgely

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