American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Aguja Guillaumet, Various Ascents. Aguja Guillaumet saw several ascents during the 1995- 1996 season. Perhaps most noteworthy was Richard Aschert and Bryan Becker’s ascent of a new variation to the 1981 Buscaini/Metzeltin Route on the southeast face. The Buscaini/Metzeltin route takes the left-hand finger of a prominent three-fingered glacier on the eastern aspect of the mountain. On January 31, Becker and Aschert climbed about six new pitches of low-angled rock right of the finger, before joining the Buscaini/Metzeltin Route about 1,000 feet up. Becker reported rock moves up to 5.9-5.10 and some excellent mixed climbing. The pair climbed the entire route free. On February 8, Americans John Catto and Peter Gallagher also climbed Guillaumet by its regular route, which follows the right finger of the three-fingered glacier on the east face. At least one Argentine party climbed this route as well.

Cameron M. Burns

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