American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Cordillera de los Andes, Ascents in the Tres Gemelos Massif, Mendoza

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1997

Ascents in the Tres Gemelos Massif, Mendoza. This massif, as well as many others, was visited by Fitz Gerald and the Countess Nadine Von Meyendorff in 1903. On January 8, 1995, Andres Amione and Glauco Muratti ascended Cerro Tres Gemelos (5241 m), the highest summit of the massif, on the border with Chile. Most of the ascent was 30 degrees; the ice couloir, which is only eight to 10 meters wide, is 35-40 degrees, and the exit is 55-60 degrees. The summit is formed by rotten rock.

The Aguja Ana (Ana’s Needle, 4850 m) is close to Gemelo Este and is the highest of five needles. It can be seen from Laguna Horcones. It was ascended in October, 1996, by Muratti (30- 40 degree ice couloirs, and a chimney of good snow at 60 degrees).

Undoubtedly the best ascent was Pico Bonito (4987 m). It was attempted in 1986 by Arranz and Gomez, but their attempt was abandoned 250 meters beneath the summit.

In 1989 Bianchi and Muratti tried another route but failed 100 meters before the top. On October 13, 1994, Gabriel Piotto, Adrian Petrocelli, Diego Cancelo, Gervasio Fierro, Guillermo Bianchi and Glauco Muratti finished the 1986 route. It had 45-degree unstable snow, and was a little steeper in the exit. This peak may have been first ascended by Von Meyendorff and party.

Marcelo Scanu, Buenos Aires, Argentina

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