American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. On May 10, Mike and Steve Marolt and Jim Gile climbed Pequeño Alpamayo (18,500’) in the Condoriri massif of Bolivia. Climbing conditions were perfect and the total climbing time base camp to base camp was approximately eight hours. On May 12, Mike Marolt and Jim Gile climbed Nevado Condoriri (19,800’). Conditions were perfect with actual WI4 in the main col on the summit pyramid. The total climbing time base camp to base camp was approximately 12 hours. Most parties use a high camp on this climb which is nice but with adequate acclimation not necessary. The summit pyramid is four or five pitches of very exposed knife ridge at 30 to 45 degrees. On May 16, Mike and Steve Marolt and Jim Gile arrived at base camp for Huayna Potosí. The next day the team climbed to approximately 18,000 feet and established a high camp. On May 18 they ascended to the summit at 20,800 feet in perfect conditions. On the descent, scud clouds developed—the only clouds in a three-week period. The team continued on to base camp the same day.

On May 10 the party drove to the base camp for Illimani. The next day the team climbed to a high camp at approximately 18,100 feet. On May 21, the team attempted the summit in perfect conditions; however, due to illness and fatigue from previous climbs, the summit was aborted at about 20,000 feet. Note that this base camp and high camp are among the most spectacular this team has ever experienced in over 14 expeditions throughout the world. All altitudes are based on our GPS readings and are slightly higher than most published accountings.

Mike Marolt

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