American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Central Ranges, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Central Peru, Various Ascents. My first campaign centered around the Rajuntay group of the Cordillera de la Viuda, inland from Lima and north of the sources of the Rimac River. From the railroad station of Chinchán I managed to reach the Rajuntay peaks and attempted a couple of them in order to acclimatize. Marching north of Rajuntay I camped in the upper Vicuñita valley. On May 29, I ascended Nevado Vicuñita (5100 m) and continued to its northern, glaciated P. 5050 m, which I christened Nevado Vicuñita Blanca. The following day, I ascended the striking, dark rock peak west of the former via the southwest gully; I named it Cerro Chihuancu (Quichua: “Black Bird”, ca. 5000 m).

My second campaign centered on the central peaks of the unknown (to mountaineers) Cordillera de Cascacocha. This is a small range located south of the sources of the Rimac river and south of the town of San Mateo; it is composed of some 20 peaks up to 5317 meters, mostly rock with steep, icy south faces. Using local transportation I reached the Pacococha mine and then marched east to the main group of peaks. On June 11 I climbed Cerro Mushca (5025 m) by its easy north side. There were signs of mining surveyors on the summit. I then crossed the high Yauric pass to reach the base of the Suerococha group. On June 15 I climbed P. 5300 east of Nevado Suerococha. In my estimation, this peak is only 5100 meters high. I christened it Cerro Soiro Huacta (Quichua: “Longridge”). The same day I traversed west to climb Nevado Suerococha (5312 m), a very attractive mountain. Except for Cerro Mushca, all peaks listed above were previously unclimbed. Names quoted were drawn from the Peruvian Carta Nacional 1:100,000, hoja (sheet) Matucana, 1971. Names found or imposed will be reported to the Instituto Geográfico de Lima.

Evelio Echevarría

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