American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Staunings Alps, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Staunings Alps, Various Ascents. Our lightweight expedition lasted from April 26 to May 18 and consisted of two groups. The ski group comprised Olav Nilssen, Dag Fergestad, Stein Fergestad, Bjrn Backe and Inge Lotsberg. The climbing group was made up by Haavard Nesheim, Magnar Osnes, Oestein Cruikshank and me as a leader. From Akureyri, Iceland, we chartered a plane from Flugfelag Nordulands, and the ski group was flown to the snout of the Loberen Glacier in Nordvestfjorden. Then the climbing group was flown to the upper Roslin Glacier. A food cache for the skiers was placed at the landing point. Carrying all the equipment on their backs, the ski team completed a south-to-north traverse of the Staunings Alps in 21 days. The trip was about 180 kilometers long and followed the great glacier system close to the east-west divide. This route was pioneered by the Scottish expedition in 1992 with some variations. The skiers crossed nine cols, of which one had not previously been crossed (Triton Pass-Triton Glacier to Canis Minar Glacier). They also climbed 19 peaks, some of them together with the climbing group and eight of them probably for the first time. In total, they covered over 20,000 meters uphill.

The climbing group ascended 10 peaks around the upper Roslin Glacier, eight probably for the first time and the two others by new routes: Cantabrigia, east face, and Magog, south face and complete traverse. With all our equipment on our backs we moved north to the upper Gully Glacier, where we climbed 10 peaks (some together with the skiers), six probably for the first time. On Norskeand Dansketinden we used the normal route. Altogether the climbing team crossed four cols, two probably for the first time: Fimbulpasset, which is the col between Fimbulbreen and Cantabre, and the col between Grant and Kirk Glacier. Finally the climbers skied down Berserkerbre to Mestervig; meanwhile the skiers crossed False Col to Skjoldungebreen and down this to the fjord. In total the expedition ascended 33 peaks, 19 probably for the first time. Apart from one day with strong wind and one day of fog on Kong Oscars Fjord, we were blessed with calm, cold and sunny weather throughout the whole journey. The snow and ice conditions were good.

Frode Guldal, Norsk Tindeklub

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