American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Ulamertossuaq, Moby Dick, and Nalumasortoq, Umwelten

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, and Nalumasortoq, Umwelten. It was reported that British climbers Mike Turner, Louise Thomas, Nigel Shepherd and Ian Wilson made a number of notable ascents in the Tasermiut Fjord. Mike Turner and Louise Thomas made a rapid ascent of the 1994 line, Moby Dick (900 meters, ED3 7c+ and 20 meters of A1) at the end of June. The pair established a portaledge at 300 meters and then fixed rope on the next 200 meters before making a 22-hour push to the top in a window of good weather. This was the second ascent of the route.

Shepherd and Wilson, meanwhile, had been working on a line on the Right-Hand Pillar of Nalumasortoq and, on July 4, after three days of storm, returned to their portaledge. On the first good day of weather Shepherd took a fall from seven pitches up. He bruised his back after landing on his camera and the pair gave up their attempt.

Turner and Thomas had shifted their attentions and climbed Umwelten (600 meters, 5.12 Al), a route that ascends the cracks between the left and central towers of Nalumasortoq. They fixed 400 meters over two days, and summitted on the third day. (High Mountain Sports 168)

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.