American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Gauntlet Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Auyuittuq National Park, Gauntlet Peak. It was reported that the Italian team of Mario Manica, Danny Zampiccoli and Giorgio Nicolodi climbed a new route, Momenti Magici (475 meters, 5.1 le A3+), on Gauntlet Peak in Auyuittuq National Park. The trio had intended to climb in the Sam Ford Fjord, but 15 days before leaving were forced to change their objectives as the logistical costs of travel to Sam Ford Fjord were prohibitively expensive. At the entrance to Auyuittuq National Park, and three hours from their base camp, Gauntlet Peak became their new objective, and they began climbing on May 29. They started in the very center of the pillar, following a logical line of dihedrals and cracks, and managed to free most of it at up to 5.11 c with some aid at A3+ before the weather took a turn for the worse. They descended, leaving most of their gear at the base of the pillar, and spent five days in base camp, then, sensing a turn for the better, left early on the morning of June 3. In eight hours they had climbed half the wall.

Over the next five pitches snow and ice complicated the ascent. At the end of the last pitch an overhanging cornice blocked the way to the summit. The climbers were forced to move to the edge of the pillar to attain the top, which they did on June 4. (Lo Scarpone 12)

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