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North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Northern Selkirks, Various Ascents

Northern Selkirks, Various Ascents. In August, 1995, Steve Sheriff and I gained a high point beneath Mount Sorcerer by following logging roads through clearcuts above Bachelor Creek. We then bushwhacked directly toward the peak for a kilometer or two, crossing several large gullies and rock ribs to gain the lower tongue of the northeast glacier. We ascended the glacier to the base of the northeast face, then climbed the face on moderate snow and some ice to the summit cornice and ridge, which we followed without gaining much additional height for a few hundred meters to the true summit. We later discovered that a similar line had probably been followed by Canadian climbers the previous summer, but had not been reported. This route is a moderate one, but ease of access will probably make it the standard route on this classic Selkirk peak.

A few days later, Sheriff and I climbed the true north face of Mount Iconoclast. We bushwhacked up Benedict Creek and then ascended moraine, cliffs, and meadows for about six hours to a bivy beneath the north face. The following morning, we simul-climbed and belayed several pitches of ice followed by lower-angle firn directly up the face to the summit ridge, and from there walked a short distance to the top. It is an excellent climb, but a difficult approach.

In July, 1996, Sheriff, Mike Kehoe, Guy Pinjuv, and I climbed the northwest ridge of Mount Remilliard. From a camp on a small alp about a kilometer from the north face, we followed a complex line over the Remilliard Glacier and up snow and ice gullies to the rock ridge. Several pitches of excellent diorite with climbing up to 5.9 took us to the summit. We descended by the Remilliard Icefield and crossed the Remilliard Glacier again to return to camp.

Gray Thompson