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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes, Northeast Ridge

Mount Hayes, Northeast Ridge. On May 15, Tom Douglas, Fred Harbison and I started from the Trident Glacier (6,000 feet) up a new route on the southeast ridge of Mount Hayes in the central Alaska Range. About 500 feet up the route, Harbison had a minor fall, and we retreated back to our Base Camp on the glacier. The following day, Douglas and I started up the easier northeast ridge while Harbison rested at camp. We spent the first night at the saddle below the ridge (10,000 feet), and waited out a storm the following day. At 8 a.m. on May 17 we started up the ridge, picking our way through a maze of cornices, seracs and crevasses, and climbing ice up to 60 degrees with a running belay. We reached the summit (14,500 feet) at 2 p.m., and were back at our camp on the Trident Glacier by 8 p.m.

Steve Davis