American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Little Switzerland Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. In July, Mike Woolridge, Rob Pease, Campbell Mercer and Matt Walsh were active in Little Switzerland. In their notes to the Denali climbing rangers, they reported the following ascents. North Troll, an eight-pitch line via the northeast ridge and north face, by Pease and Woolridge, on July 7. A route on Fish Tail Spire (70 meters, 5.6 A2 or 5.10a), which is immediately south of the southeast face of The Throne (Walsh/Mercer, July 7); Half Way Hotel (200 meters, 5.8) on the southeast face of The Throne, by Mercer and Walsh, date not given. On July 15, on the southeast face of The Throne, Mercer and Walsh climbed The Lost Marsupial (12 pitches, 5.8). The route starts 50 meters to the left (west) of the central couloir that splits the southeast face. The climbers rapped straight down the face on the descent. In their reports on the Royal Tower, Woolridge and Pease wrote, “There are six main buttresses forming the east face of Royal Tower. The following two routes are the two most southern buttresses on the east face. The buttresses were climbed to the easy upper snow slopes but descent was via rappelling the route.” Di’s Surprise (10 pitches, 5.9 A2) is “the southern-most buttress on the east face of Royal Tower and forms the eastern extremity of the south face. It is characterized by two large black slab/walls. Start at the square-cut comer 20 meters south of the couloir. (Go) up the comer, then (the) slabs/wall above, tending left up the crack systems. Traverse right across the ledge to gain the crack systems almost in the couloir. Follow these (some aid) up past three major ledges to the easy snow slopes. Descent: rap the route.” The route was climbed on July 9. On Boomerang Buttress (12 pitches, 5.8+), “the long slender buttress immediately right (north) of Di’s Surprise, follow the buttress to upper snow slopes. Descent: Rap route.” Mercer, Walsh, July 9.

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