American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, New Route. On May 19, Juraj Hreus and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Denali. From the 14,200-foot camp we started climbing at 8 a.m. and climbed on the northwest face until 7 p.m., encountering 10 pitches of ice and bad snow, then 25 pitches of mixed (40° to 75°) ice, rock, and snow through rock pillars. When our route joined the West Buttress route, we stopped for one hour, made hot water and then climbed the rest of the buttress to the top of Denali. We returned at 3 p.m. to the 14,200 foot-base camp. The complete climb had taken us 19 hours nonstop.

Jan Svrcek, Slovakia

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