American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Mount Evans, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Mount Evans, Various Ascents. On August 8, Greg Crouch and I climbed Captain Calamari (six pitches, 5.9+ R A1), which lies to the left of the steep gully system that splits the Black Wall amphitheater (right of Roofer Madness) on Mount Evans. The crux fifth pitch is a full rope length of cool, sparsely protected face climbing. We used aid near the top in the second sleet storm of the day. It would definitely go free.

On the far left side of Mount Evans' Black Wall amphitheater, Steve Landin and I climbed Goat Cheese (seven pitches, 5.10) on August 11. The route is broken by big ledges, but contains some good climbing. The crux is a tricky, slightly run-out corner. The second pitch offwidth is really cool. Bring a #5 Camalot or equivalent.

Dougald MacDonald

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