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North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Bottleneck Peak, Fumbling Toward Ecstasy

San Rafael Swell, Bottleneck Peak, Fumbling Toward Ecstasy. With Laura Zaruba, on October 12, I climbed Fumbling Toward Ecstasy (four pitches, 5.10) on Bottleneck Peak. The route takes a right-facing corner system on the right side of the north face. Johanna’s Offwidth is just to right; a rap anchor is visible in the chimney about 60 feet up. The route doesn’t reach the summit (a blank headwall would require a long bolt ladder) but reaches the “west peak.” Downclimb a 5.9 offwidth to bolt anchor; 165 feet to anchor. 60 feet to ground. Really fine tower climbing.

Dougald MacDonald