American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Monument Basin, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Monument Basin, Various Ascents. With various partners, I was involved in the following ascents. Tutti-Frutti (two pitches, 5.10 C2), on the Pixie Stick (first ascent of tower), Monument Basin, with Paul Gagner, Donna Raupp, and Dave Goldstein. The Meemohive, first clean ascent, with Paul Gagner. The Enigmatic Syringe, first clean ascent, with Paul Gagner, Dave Goldstein, Bill Hatcher and Donna Raupp. (Gagner freed the first pitch at 5.11d X—a truly insane lead.)

Dave Goldstein and I climbed the Wiggins Route (Northeast Arête), Shark’s Fin, Monument Basin, on October 1-2. It was the first clean ascent, third ascent overall, and sixth of the tower. The climb featured classic hard clean aid on the most overhanging multi-pitch route in the desert. There were very tricky placements, but the steepness and good gear every 20 or 25 feet makes it quite safe. We called it C4 for the technical difficulty.

Dougald MacDonald

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