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North America, United States, California, Little Slide Canyon, Regge Pole, The East Face Dihedrals

Little Slide Canyon, Regge Pole, The East Face Dihedrals. Pat Brennan and I completed The East Face Dihedrals (III 5.11) on Regge Pole on September 1. The route ascends the spectacular system of dihedrals visible from the Barney Lakes Trail. The climb ends dramatically at the very top of the spire. Start in the huge right-facing corner on the right side of Regge Pole, as viewed from the east in Little Slide Canyon. After several pitches (5.10R face and 5.10+ offwidth), step left into a crack that splits a 40-foot rotten headwall (5.10+) to a ledge. The slightly overhanging corner above (some 5.11) continues directly to the summit of the pole in two more wild pitches. The climb involves wide cracks, tricky route-finding and sometimes bad rock. This is without a doubt one of the most incredible lines in the area. Double ropes and lots of runners are essential. Take clean protection from tiny to 12”.

Bruce Bindner