American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Mount Baker, Variation to Roman Nose Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1997

Mount Baker, Variation to Roman Nose Route. On June 9, Mike Morrison, Tim Weyand and I climbed what may be little more than a variation to the Roman Nose route on Mount Baker. This route (a.k.a. the Roman Bridge) gains the Roman Nose above the middle, steep step. From the right side of the nose, in the amphitheater north from and below the saddle on the Coleman-Deming route (and just left of the seracs above), one climbs moderately steep snow straight up to the ridge crest and continues up the Roman Ridge. Two-thirds of the way up one must thread a funnely bit (the steepest part) by moving right around rock; the seracs are 30 feet to the right of this. Time: three hours from The Hogback to summit. Again, I don’t think this route exists in summer, when it’s probably a pumice slope.

Chris Young, unaffiliated

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