American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, New Route. The expedition was made up of Kim Bover, Ramon Estiu, Jordi Bosch “Barraca,” Xavier Robiró, Carles Figueras, Josep Permañé and Iñaki Garijo. The route was climbed without prior preparation alpine-style by Josep Permañé and Carles Figueras on September 22 and 23. After we had established basecamp (5700 meters), we began to climb on September 22. We did not find any platform for the tent so we attached ourselves to the slopes, passing the night at 6800 meters. The following day we went up to the top side of the southeast ridge (approximately 7550 meters) where we put up a tent 50 meters below it. On September 24 we passed the seracs (approximately 7700 meters) and went up the slopes which led to the top. We could only advance slowly, opening a deep pathway in the snow. Surrounded by fog until 4 p.m. we arrived at what we believed was the top. But suddenly the fog disappeared and we understood that we were wrong — we were on the small top situated directly east of the main top. (We saw perfectly the exit of the English route near our feet and the ridge leading to the main summit some meters above us.) We decided not to arrive on the main top (excessive snow, fatigue, lateness of day), and descended. On September 25 we continued the descent to Advanced Base Camp beginning from 7400 meters on the southeast edge.

JOAUQUIM Bover Busquet, Spain

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