Asia, Pakistan, Latok II Attempt, and Ascents of Ogre Thumb and Spaldang

Publication Year: 1996.

Latok II Attempt, and Ascents of Ogre Thumb and Spaldang. It was reported that a German expedition powered by the bold young climber Alexander Huber reached a height of 6600 meters on Latok 2 before turning back in the face of unsettled weather and a shortage of fuel. An injury to Jochan Haase prompted a call for the porters to end the trip, but before the hike out Huber with Hans Hocke managed a one-day ascent of the 1200-meter south face of the Ogre Thumb (5500 meters), climbing some 26 pitches at up to 5.1la/A0. After a day of rest Huber, Volker Benz, Karl Friedrich Spitzhof and Ruta Florschittz started up the east buttress of Spaldang (5590 meters), jümaring lines that had been fixed over three weeks (16 pitches, 5.9), and continued along an easy snow ridge to bivouac at 5100 meters. The next day, the team, minus Ruta who had decided not to continue, climbed to the summit, encountering climbing up to 5.12b. The route was 1000 meters and 35 pitches long. (On The Edge 57)