American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Anthony's Peak, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Anthony's Peak, First Ascent. Chris Howarth, Ian Arnold, Dave Millman and Richard Baines established Advance Base at Karphoro on the Upper Biafo and Uzum Brakk North glaciers. Snow conditions were very lean and the weather unusually fine. After a number of forays a peak was climbed on August 20 by Arnold and Baines. This is a satellite peak of Ben (5734 meters) at an altitude of 5070 meters on the true right bank of the Ghur glacier at its junction with the Biafo. Its position is 35° 54 minutes north, 75° 41 minutes east. It involved 450 meters snow/ice/mixed climbing of Scottish Grade IV. The peak was named Anthony's Peak as a tribute to Anthony Ozolins, whose short life was a lesson to us all in the strength of the human spirit. Both teams left the glacier earlier than planned. The return porters were contacted in Skardu to retrieve the gear from Base Camp and they did this with superhuman speed.

Chris Howarth, unaffiliated

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