American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum, West Ridge via Northwest Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Masherbrum, West Ridge via Northwest Face Attempt. The team consisted of Peter Absolon, David Irwin, Marco Cornacchione, and Gary Wilmot. Base Camp was placed on the Mundu Glacier at 14,000 feet on June 12. Camps I and II were situated at 17,000 feet, and 20,000 feet by July 10. The team fixed lines to 21,000 feet in an attempt to establish Camp III in the col at the base of the west ridge. After a period of bad weather a summit attempt was planned. Warm weather and extremely hazardous serac fall caused the team to abort the attempt on the mountain. The night before the summit bid two avalanches completely scoured the face, both events threatening camps and slopes used during the ascent. This was the second attempt on the route. The first attempt was made by another Wyoming team in 1985. Both expeditions experienced extreme objective hazard from falling ice.

Gary P. Wilmot, NOLS

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.