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Asia, Pakistan, Skilbrum Attempt

Skilbrum Attempt. The only known climb of Skilbrum (7360 meters) was made in 1957 by Marcus Smuck and Fritz Wintersteller, during the famous expedition of Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger to Broad Peak. Our Base Camp was set up at an altitude of 5200 meters on the left moraine of Savoia Glacier. We started up on August 13 with fine weather. Camp I was set in a safe area at an altitude of 5800 meters after six hours. The following day, we reached the upper cwm at the foot of the southeast wall of Skilbrum and set up Camp 2 in this wide plateau (6200 meters). The direct ascent of Skilbrum southeast wall, which is the reported route of the first ascent, appears today very difficult and dangerous. We spent one day finding a reasonably safe and easy route, starting to the left of the icefall, to Skilbrum Saddle (6650 meters). We returned to Camp 2 and set Camp 3 on Skilbrum Saddle on the following day. Above the camp we found that the ridge connecting the col to Skilbrum's south face had a very thin corniced stretch. The following slope also appeared somewhat avalanche prone because of the large amount of fresh snow fallen in the previous week. On the following morning, we saw clear indications of changing weather. We decided to give up and retreat. Due to the short time at our disposal, we had no possibility for a second attempt. Our climb to Skilbrum Saddle was a first, since this col was never reached before.

Livio Visintini, Club Alpino Italiano