American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tawoche, Northeast Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 1996

Tawoche, Northeast Buttress. Mick Fowler and Pat Littlejohn climbed the northeast buttress in four and a half days in April. They followed the line previously tried by a French team in 1990 and climbed up left to a right-slanting ramp line to gain the crest of the buttress at approximately 5600 meters (the previous highpoint). From the top of the buttress they followed the connecting ridge to the top of Tawoche (6542 meters) which was reached at 7:30 a.m. on April 28. The route was 43 pitches long, was climbed alpine-style (after the first 70 meters) and the overall grade was ED (Sup). Mike Morrison was sick for the duration with the result that he and Chris Watts were unable to undertake any serious climbing. (An account of this climb appears earlier in this journal.)

Mick Fowler, Alpine Climbing Group

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