American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Theogiri, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Theogiri, First Ascent. On October 26, Peter Papas and I completed what is probably the first ascent of P 5953 in the Kusum Kanguru massif of Nepal. This is the peak just south of the main summit as marked on the Shorong-Hinku Schneider map. Our approach was the same as that used by the 1988 British group that climbed the southeast face of Kusum Kanguru; Base Camp (13,000 feet) and Camp 1 (16,000 feet) were the same as theirs. We made Camp 2 on the Lungsamba Glacier at 18,000 feet, and from there found a way through a minor icefall to a high camp at 19,000 feet on the ridge between Kusum Kanguru and our peak. Three ropelengths were fixed along a horizontal, mixed section just beyond that camp, and the summit was reached on October 26. We spent a total of 10 days above our Base Camp, using porters from there to Camp 1 only. Peter christened this peak Theogiri.

Ron Matous

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.