American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Hiunchuli, East Face, Terra Nostra

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Hiunchuli, East Face, Terra Nostra. Tadej Golob, Dujan Polenik and Tomac Jeras climbed the 1200-meter Terra Nostra (ED VI+ A2) on the previously unclimbed east face of Hiunchuli (6441 meters) in October. Polenik and Jeras fixed ropes on the first rock pitches on October 5. All three started the final push on October 11 at 3 p.m. At the top of the fixed lines they encountered snow/ice climbing. They climbed all night, mainly unroped, and reached the subsidiary summit (6005 meters) at 5 a.m. Golob and Polenik continued to the main summit, but they gave up because of wet snow and fatigue. At noon all three started descending the route of ascent and reached the ground at 6 a.m. They made five rappels during the descent.

Franci Savenc, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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