Asia, India, Ladakh (Rupshu), Yogeshwar Attempt and Saife Ascent

Publication Year: 1996.

Yogeshwar Attempt and Saife Ascent. After an initial attempt on the unclimbed south ridge of Yoseghwar (6617 meters), which was thwarted by dangerous rotten rock and mud sections and exposure, our L.O. offered us the possibility to climb Saife (6166 meters) on the left side of the Svetvarn Glacier. Our L.O. Mr. Roy, with Oscar, Joan Marc and Guillem, decided they would try the north slopes by a known route while Xavier and I tried the east face directly to the top. On September 19 we left ABC at 6 a.m., climbing together until 5400 meters. Beneath the east wall of Sundarshan Parbat we divided in two groups; the first climbed the safe slopes of the north face and reached the top at 1 p.m. while we climbed the east face. Our route was not very difficult; the slope was 50°-55° maximum with passages of black ice near the crevasses and some snow fields on the upper side of the face. On top the view was great, with Shivling, the Bhagirathis and Yogeshwar between the evening clouds. We descended by the north face route of our friends.

Fernando Navarro Rondan, Spain