American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Ladakh (Rupshu), Lungser Kangri, Chhamser Kangri, and Lapgo Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Lungser Kangri, Chhamser Kangri, and Lapgo Peaks. An expedition of The Mountaineers led by Harish Kapadia climbed and trekked in the Rupshu district of southeast Ladakh, an area recently opened to visitors. Dividing forces, one team climbed Chhamser Kangri (6622 meters) on July 14 via the southwest ridge. They found a cairn erected by the Survey of India on the summit. Two camps were established en route. For the next peak a camp (C2) was placed at 6240 meters. From here, a four-member team climbed the northwest slopes to the summit of Lungser Kangri (6666 meters), the second highest peak in Ladakh (excluding Zanskar). Both summits were flat. In the meantime, the team of Divyesh Muni and his wife Vinita climbed separately. They made the first ascent of Lapgo (6405 meters) on July 10. Unknown to both teams, they climbed Chhamser Kangri by a new route, the northeast ridge, on July 15. Three members of the expedition trekked across north Rupshu, crossing 11 passes and visiting Tso Kar Lake and Thugje Gompa.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal

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