American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Panch Chuli IV, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Panch Chuli IV, First Ascent. A five-member team led by John Nankervis approached this remote peak in Kumaon from the Pyunshani Valley. The ridge was gained from the pocket névé above the top icefall between Panch Chuli IV and V at the head of the glacier. The final ascent of Panch Chuli IV (6334 meters) was achieved on October 1 via the southwest ridge, taking seven and a half hours. This was only the second group to visit this valley. With this climb Panch Chuli III is the only virgin peak left in this lovely group.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal

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