Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Bhrigupanth Ascent

Publication Year: 1996.

Bhrigupanth Ascent. We arrived in Gangotri on September 9. After last-minute arrangements for portering we entered the Kedar Ganga, establishing Base Camp on September 12 in Kedar Tal (4750 meters). During the first five days we established ABC at the foot of the glacier (5000 meters) and made an acclimation ascent up to camp at 5500 meters. Between C1 and C2 there is a 45°-55°, 650-meter couloir with ropes fixed by a German team that tried Thalay Sagar’s northwest spur. We departed from Base Camp on September 20, trying for an alpine ascent. September 21 we moved from ABC to C1, and on September 22 from C1 to C2 (5900 meters). On September 23 we started from C2 at 3:30 a.m. We reached C3 (6460 meters), encountering 45°-55° and III/IV mixed climbing before arriving at the summit (6772 meters) at 1:30 p.m. From the top we made seven rappels to C3 and arrived at C2 at 7 p.m. The next day we reached Base Camp. Members of the Basque Expedition were Txapu Martin, Iñaki Ruiz, Iñaki Barcena, Luis Miguel Egiluz and Eduardo Gómez.

Eduardo Gómez, Basque Country