American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Mana Parbat II Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Mana Parbat II Ascent. The Mana Parbat group of peaks (four in all, all above 6700 meters) lies on the Kalindi Glacier, which is part of the Gangotri Glacier. The Mana Parbat Glacier drains toward the north and is not suitable for approach. A three-member team of Vinay Hedge (leader), Rajesh Cadjil and V. Shankar traversed the Gangotri Glacier until its junction with the Chaturangi Glacier at Nandanvan. Ahead they established Base Camp at Khada Pathar on May 27. C1 (5242 meters) was established on May 30, and C2 (5515 meters) was on the Kalindi Glacier, with C3 at 5700 meters. C4 (6121 meters) was their final summit camp. On June 5, after an initial attempt of the southwest ridge, they turned to the less complicated but steeper north/northwest ridge. Fixing about 180 meters of rope on a 75° slope, they reached a bergschrund and gave up. Returning on June 6 they climbed on, fixing another 100 meters of rope to reach the summit (6771 meters) at 6 p.m. They returned to camp at 9:30 p.m. This was the second ascent of the peak.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal

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