American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Assam Himalaya, Nyegi Kangsang, East-Northeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Nyegi Kangsang, East-Northeast Ridge. An Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition led by Col. M.P. Yadav climbed to the summit of Nyegi Kangsang (7050 meters) on October 23 via the east-northeast ridge. This was one of the highest unclimbed peaks in Arunuachal Pradesh. The peak is located on the Indo-Tibetan border in the East Kameng district. The route to the base of the peak was as long and troublesome as the final climb itself. The team conducted an aerial recon earlier in the season. The primary roadhead was Ziro and the secondary roadhead was Koloriang, which is on motorable route but not connected by any regular service. Some loads were ferried by helicopter from Ziro to Sarli with help from the army. The route ahead was unknown to any of the locals or army as they do not venture there. With the help of maps and some local shikaris the team reached Base Camp — a feat in itself. Many passes of above 4200 meters had to be crossed. Local porters were not available as no tradition of portering exists here. The villagers, who generally carried light loads, agreed to help due to pressure from the local administration. Three camps were established on the mountain: Cl (4100 meters), C2 (5200 meters) and C3 (5600 meters). The last camp (C3) was on the eastern col of the peak. The summit team (Ratan Singh, Rajiv Sharma, Nadre Sherpa, Jagmohan Singh Rawat and Lobsang) left C3 at 3:30 a.m. on October 23, and reached the summit at 11:30 a.m., having climbed 1450 meters. They were back to C3 on the same day.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal

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