American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Cerro Torre, Various Ascents. Two Japanese climbers made the first Japanese ascent of the Cerro Torre on November 12. Storms prevented further repeats of the route until mid-January, when several teams made the summit, including the Swiss team of Thomas Ulrich and Stefan Siegrist. Americans Jim Donini and Greg Crouch got to within 30 meters of the end of difficult rock climbing behind Ulrich and Siegrist, but a storm blew in. Ulrich and Siegrist offered the Americans a fixed rope to jümar, which was declined. Two Spanish climbers (Pepe Chevarri and a companion) attempted the south ridge in November. The pair climbed the difficult and very dangerous Marsigny/Parkin route Lost Times to the Col of Hope, but did not get much higher before a storm forced a retreat down the Torre's west face and out via the Continental Ice Cap.

Cameron Burns

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