American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Ascents and Traverses in the Jallaway Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Ascents and Traverses in the Jallawaya Group. On October 10, the brothers Gregorio and Juan Mamani, both of the Club Andino Boliviano, and I set out from La Paz to climb in the area located south of Chachakumani and north of the Jichuquta Valley (the area is sometimes called the Vinowara area). The first two days were spent completing the first traverse of the ridge from Paso Mullo, over Cerro Janq’u Uyu (5512 meters) to Cerro Jisk’a Pata (5508 meters), climbing the high points of eight peaks over 5400 meters. On the third day we climbed the highest mountain in the area, Jallawaya (5660 meters), from the south. The mountain is nameless on the IGM map. This was the second ascent and a new route. The first ascent was by a Japanese expedition in 1964. They called the peak Hailliquaya I and erroneously claimed the height to be 5940 meters.


(An account of O’Brien’s exploration of the naming of this area appears

earlier in this journal.)

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