American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Mururata Massif, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Mururata Massif, Various Ascents. For three days I tried approaches to the unclimbed peaks east of Mururata but found no access through the rock walls that enclose the Trancapata Valley. I then marched to the peaks west of Mururata. On June 2 I climbed Cerro Churu (5197 meters, west side, rock, easy); on the summit, I found a surveyor's cairn. Two days later I made the first ascent of Cerro Cota Pata (5290 meters, north side, rock). In early July I traveled to the recently built Huayna Potosi hut, on the Zongo pass. From there I marched south to attempt the sharp unclimbed rock peaks north of Nevado Charquini. All attempts failed. I then returned to the pass and marched west, to camp in the Patacota Valley. From a camp at 15,500 feet I climbed on July 10 the imposing dark rock tower of Cerro Calacruz Chico (locally also called Cerro de la Cruz) (5020 meters, first ascent, northeast side, fairly good rock).

Evelio Echevarría

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